Discovering Goa: A Journey Through History, Romance, and Monsoon - 2
Discovering Goa: A Journey Through History, Romance, and Monsoon
Splendor
Part 2
Embarking on a Journey Through Time: Old Goa's Grandeur
From the vibrant shores of Calangute, our journey today takes us back through centuries to Old Goa, the erstwhile magnificent capital of Portuguese India. As the monsoon paints the landscape in vivid greens, we'll traverse time by car, exploring architectural marvels and soaking in the echoes of a bygone era, culminating in a serene Mandovi River cruise from Panjim.
Basilica of Bom Jesus: A Beacon of Faith and Heritage
The Basilica of Bom Jesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands as a crowning jewel of Old Goa and a monumental testament to Baroque architecture in India. Its construction, commencing in 1594 and consecrated in 1605, marked a significant period of Portuguese religious and political dominance. The name "Bom Jesus" translates to "Good Jesus" or "Infant Jesus," reflecting the Portuguese devotion. The architectural style is predominantly Baroque, characterized by its ornate and dramatic flair, though it incorporates elements of Mannerism. Unlike many churches in Goa that are plastered and whitewashed, the Basilica's facade showcases the original laterite stone, giving it a raw, unadorned beauty that speaks volumes of its age and authenticity. This decision, whether intentional or due to later neglect, inadvertently preserved its unique character.
The development of the Basilica was intertwined with the arrival of the Jesuit order in Goa, particularly through the zealous efforts of St. Francis Xavier. The church was built to house the Jesuits and serve as a prominent spiritual center. Its most profound historical significance lies in being the repository of the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, one of the co-founders of the Society of Jesus and a revered missionary who spread Christianity across Asia. His uncorrupted body, housed in an ornate silver casket since 1637, is the main draw for pilgrims and tourists worldwide. Every ten years, the relics are brought down for public veneration, an event that attracts millions. The last exposition was in 2024, making the next due in 2034 (though typically 10 years after the last, sometimes with slight variations).
An interesting anecdote associated with the Basilica relates to the legend surrounding St. Francis Xavier's body. Despite being exposed to the tropical climate and centuries, the body remains remarkably preserved, leading many to believe in its miraculous nature. Another lesser-known fact is that the Basilica also houses the tomb of the Goan painter Dom Martin, adding an artistic layer to its religious and historical importance. The interiors, though less ornate than some Goan churches, are rich with religious art and beautifully carved wooden altars. The main altar, dedicated to the Infant Jesus, is a striking example of the Baroque style. The Basilica continues to be an active place of worship, its hallowed halls reverberating with centuries of prayers and devotion.
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Se Cathedral: A Colossus of Grandeur
Just a short walk from the Basilica of Bom Jesus stands the Se Cathedral, a breathtaking monument to the grandeur and ambition of Portuguese ecclesiastical architecture. Dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, it holds the distinction of being one of the largest churches in Asia. Its construction began in 1562 during the reign of King Dom Sebastian and was completed, after many phases, in 1619, with the main altar finished in 1663. The architectural style is a magnificent blend of Tuscan on the exterior and Corinthian on the interior, reflecting the classical influences prevalent during its prolonged construction.
The very scale of the Se Cathedral speaks volumes about its purpose: to assert the dominance and majesty of the Catholic Church in the East. It was built to commemorate the victory of the Portuguese forces under Afonso de Albuquerque over a Muslim army, which led to the capture of Goa in 1510, specifically on the feast day of St. Catherine. This grand edifice was intended to be "large enough to accommodate all the faithful." Originally, the Cathedral was designed with two towers, but one collapsed in 1776, and was never rebuilt, giving it its unique asymmetrical profile today.
An enduring anecdote associated with the Se Cathedral is the mystery of its famous 'Golden Bell,' one of the largest in Goa and renowned for its rich tone. Legend has it that the bell's sound was so powerful it could cure illnesses and was even heard across the river in distant villages. Another interesting feature is the Great Golden Bell Tower, which offers panoramic views from its upper levels (though access is often restricted). The Cathedral's main altar is dedicated to St. Catherine, and there are numerous other altars, each exquisitely carved and adorned, dedicated to various saints. The Baptistery, where St. Francis Xavier himself is said to have baptized many converts, is another significant spot within the Cathedral. Its sheer size and impressive design make it a focal point for understanding the scale of the Portuguese mission in Goa. The silence within its vast naves, broken only by the occasional echo, transports one to a different era, a true testament to its enduring legacy.
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Church of St. Francis of Assisi & Archaeological Museum: A Fusion of Faith and History
Adjacent to the Se Cathedral, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi offers a fascinating blend of religious reverence and historical preservation. Originally a small chapel built by Franciscan friars in 1521, it was later rebuilt into the present church, consecrated in 1661. This church beautifully exemplifies a unique fusion of Portuguese and Indian architectural styles. While its exterior reflects the typical Portuguese Baroque and Mannerist influences, the interior features intricate carvings and motifs that betray local artistic sensibilities, particularly in the ceiling and the chancel.
The primary purpose of the church was to serve the Franciscan Order, one of the earliest religious orders to arrive in Goa. Like other churches, it played a crucial role in religious conversion efforts and providing spiritual guidance to the growing Catholic population. Its development saw the original chapel being expanded to accommodate a convent, which later transformed into the Archaeological Museum, highlighting the interwoven history of faith and governance in Goa.
An interesting anecdote concerns the murals inside the church, particularly those depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis of Assisi. These detailed artworks provide not just religious narratives but also offer insights into the artistic styles and pigments available during that period. The church's main altar, dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, is a beautiful example of Baroque carving, with a large statue of the saint.
The Archaeological Museum, housed within the former convent wing, adds another layer of depth to the visit. It preserves and displays a remarkable collection of artifacts from Goa's pre-Portuguese and colonial periods. Here, one can find a diverse array of items, including portraits of Portuguese Viceroys, ancient coins, stamps, Hindu and Jain sculptures, and fragments of temple architecture discovered during excavations. This juxtaposition of a sacred space with a historical museum offers a holistic understanding of Goa's complex past, where religious zeal, political power, and cultural exchange continually shaped the landscape. The museum's exhibits provide vital context to the monumental structures surrounding it, bringing the history of Old Goa to life beyond just its religious significance.
St. Cajetan Church: Rome's Echo in Goa
The Church of St. Cajetan, though slightly off the main square of Old Goa, is an architectural marvel that often evokes gasps of recognition. Built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines between 1655 and 1661, its most striking feature is its remarkable resemblance to St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, particularly its majestic dome and classical facade. The architecture is distinctly Corinthian and Baroque, designed to replicate the grandeur of its Roman inspiration.
The Theatine friars were sent by Pope Urban VIII to spread Christianity in Golconda (a region in present-day Hyderabad), but upon their arrival, they were denied entry. They instead settled in Goa with the permission of the Portuguese authorities, establishing their monastery and constructing this magnificent church. Its purpose was not just religious worship but also to serve as a symbol of the Theatine Order's presence and influence in the Portuguese East, showcasing their architectural prowess and dedication to faith.
An interesting anecdote about St. Cajetan Church is the unopened well located beneath its high altar. Legend suggests this well might be connected to an underground tunnel leading to the Mandovi River, a secret escape route or a source of water during sieges. While never verified, it adds an air of mystery to the already impressive structure. The church has a large central dome, similar to St. Peter's, and four altars to the side, dedicated to various saints. The main altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence. The intricate carvings and the sense of spaciousness within the church are truly captivating. Its relative isolation from the main cluster of monuments adds to its serene charm, allowing visitors to appreciate its architectural details in quiet contemplation.
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Viceroy's Arch: A Gateway to Power
The Viceroy's Arch, located at the western end of Old Goa, served as the majestic ceremonial gateway into the city for newly appointed Portuguese Viceroys. Erected in 1597 by Viceroy Francisco da Gama (a descendant of Vasco da Gama), it was built to commemorate the centenary of Vasco da Gama's discovery of the sea route to India in 1498. The arch is built in a classical style, featuring an ornate facade with statues and inscriptions.
Its primary purpose was symbolic – a grand entrance through which every incoming Viceroy would pass, signifying their official assumption of power in Portuguese India. It was a clear declaration of Portuguese dominance and authority, marking the boundary between the external world and the heart of their Eastern empire. The arch also once housed a statue of Vasco da Gama himself, which has since been replaced by a statue of St. Catherine.
An interesting anecdote reveals the arch's significance: upon arrival, the new Viceroy would disembark from his ship, pass through this arch, and then proceed to the Se Cathedral for a thanksgiving service, symbolically beginning his rule. It was a carefully orchestrated display of power and religious piety. Though weathered by time, the Viceroy's Arch remains an iconic structure, silently narrating tales of colonial pageantry and the ebb and flow of power in Old Goa.
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The Tower of St. Augustine: A Lonely Sentinel
Dominating the skyline of Old Goa, the solitary Tower of St. Augustine is a poignant and dramatic remnant of what was once the magnificent Church of Our Lady of Grace, part of the large Augustinian Monastery complex. Built in 1602 by Augustinian friars, the church was considered one of the largest and most beautiful in Goa, boasting eight chapels, a convent, and a belfry. The architecture was typically Augustinian Baroque, characterized by robust construction and grand scale.
The primary purpose of the Augustinian complex was to serve as a seminary and a center for the Augustinian Order's missionary activities in Asia. It played a crucial role in religious education and the training of missionaries. However, the monastery was abandoned in 1835 following the suppression of religious orders in Goa by the Portuguese government. Over time, neglect and the destructive forces of nature took their toll. The church collapsed in 1842, and by 1931, only half of the tower remained. What stands today, a skeletal but imposing structure, is one of the four original towers that supported the church's main facade.
An anecdote tells of the discovery of the remains of Queen Ketevan, a Georgian queen and martyr, within the ruins in 2005. Her relics had been brought to Goa by Augustinian friars in the 17th century. This discovery further cemented the tower's historical and international significance. The Tower of St. Augustine, now a UNESCO-protected monument, is a powerful symbol of Old Goa's lost grandeur and the ephemeral nature of even the most imposing structures. Its isolated majesty against the sky offers a profound sense of history and contemplation.
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Mandovi River Cruise from Panjim Jetty: A Rhythmic Farewell
As the sun begins its descent, we make our way to the Panjim Jetty for a Mandovi River cruise, a quintessential Goan experience. These cruises offer a delightful blend of relaxation, entertainment, and picturesque views, providing a different perspective of Goa away from its historical monuments. While the cruise itself doesn't boast centuries of history like the churches, it continues a long tradition of riverine activity on the Mandovi, which has been vital for trade and transportation throughout Goa's past, serving as the lifeblood connecting inland areas to the sea.
The purpose of a modern-day Mandovi River cruise is entirely recreational, designed to offer tourists a pleasant evening on the water. These cruises typically feature:
- Live Entertainment: Expect lively performances of traditional Goan folk dances like the Dekhni, Fugdi, and Corridinho, often accompanied by live music. This offers a vibrant immersion into Goan culture.
- Scenic Views: As the boat glides along, you'll see the lush riverbanks, distant twinkling lights of Panjim, and perhaps even glimpses of the imposing Reis Magos Fort on the opposite bank (though we are not visiting it, you can spot it).
- Sunset Spectacle (Monsoon permitting): If the clouds part, the sunset over the Mandovi can be absolutely breathtaking, painting the sky in hues of orange and purple. Even with cloudy monsoon skies, the dramatic atmosphere over the water is unique.
- Light Refreshments: Most cruises offer a small snack bar or refreshments, adding to the relaxed ambiance.
During the monsoon, the Mandovi River is particularly full and swift. The surrounding greenery along its banks appears incredibly vibrant and fresh, washed clean by the rains. While an open-sky sunset might be elusive, the dramatic cloud formations, misty horizons, and the sound of rain (if it's drizzling) add a unique, atmospheric charm to the cruise. The covered sections of the boats ensure a comfortable experience even in a downpour, making it a perfect way to conclude a day of historical exploration.
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Reflection on Old Goa
Returning to Calangute after a day immersed in Old Goa is like stepping out of a time machine. The contrast between the modern vibrancy of the coast and the ancient, hallowed quietude of the former capital is profound. Old Goa isn't merely a collection of old buildings; it's a monumental canvas where the ambitions of a global empire, the fervor of religious zeal, and the resilience of human faith are etched in every stone. Walking through the vast naves of Se Cathedral, feeling the spiritual weight in the Basilica of Bom Jesus, or contemplating the lonely dignity of St. Augustine's Tower, one truly grasps the scale of the Portuguese endeavor and its enduring legacy.
The monsoon, far from detracting, enhances this experience. The rain-washed facades glow, the air is clean and cool, and the lush vegetation provides a striking, almost melancholic beauty to the ancient ruins. It's a place that whispers stories of saints, viceroys, and forgotten grandiosity. The day culminates perfectly with the Mandovi River cruise, a symbolic journey from the historical heart back to the living pulse of Goa, reminding us that even as empires rise and fall, the natural beauty and cultural rhythm of this unique land endure.
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